Cool, Not Cold: Nicolas Di Felice's Reinvention of Courrèges Centers On Warmth And Realness

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Cool, Not Cold: Nicolas Di Felice's Reinvention of Courrèges Centers On Warmth And Realness
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'I didn’t necessarily want to be an artistic director—it wasn’t my main dream,” shares Nicolas Di Felice. “My main dream was—and it still is—to be happy.” Here, learn more about the designer's reinvention of the brand, Courrèges.

It’s September in New York, just after Labor Day, and Nicolas Di Felice, artistic director of Courrèges, is putting the finishing touches to the French house’s new store in the city. It’s in SoHo, and it’s all space-age white, of course, inspired by Courrèges’s original rue François 1er boutique in Paris, which Di Felice recently had renovated.

“It’s more about style than just a look,” Di Felice says, describing the house’s very particular aesthetic legacy. “What I love about Courrèges is that you can wear the total look, but I’ve focused on creating things that you can mix it with. This leather shirt, for instance,” he says, gesturing to one hanging in the new store. “I love it with jeans as much as with leather head-to-toe. I’m obsessed with workwear as much as couture,” he continues.

A few weeks later, in Paris, it’s clear that Di Felice still has that uppermost in his mind for his spring 2023 collection, which fuses the house signatures with scuba, surf—and the street: There’s a short dress that looks as if it’s been made out of coral , jackets in durable cotton drill worn as oversized shirts, crystal-­embroidered faded denim, and a series of sinuous tops and dresses based on a 1974 design Di Felice found in the archives, swapping the original’s spiraling zippers in...

The designer took on Courrèges after a very contented decade-plus spent working for Ghesquière. He arrived at Balenciaga as an intern in 2008 and quickly fell into step with the vibe of the studio and its fierce work ethic, making his mark in more ways than one: The vintage biker jacket Di Felice wore every day ended up in a Balenciaga collection, and after finishing his two-month internship, he was called to come back after being home for only a few days.

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