CookingWithParis is a disaster — an utterly unappealing sit that many viewers will tune out before the first episode has ended. Read Variety’s review of the new Netflix series:
,” seems like a first attempt at testing that case, moving beyond Hilton explaining herself and deepening what she says is her game of image management.
The premise here resembles that of “The Simple Life,” the Fox series that launched Hilton’s career as a reality star. Now, as then, Hilton is placed in an unfamiliar situation and forced to cope. The difference is in degree of difficulty: On “The Simple Life,” Hilton, with costar Nicole Richie, traveled America. Here, she leaves her kitchen only to visit food shops and stock up; well-known guests come to her, and together they prepare a meal. This sort of social-distancing seems purposeful.
A show about an unskilled home cook trying to make fun meals is not necessarily the ground on which to stage a debate about authenticity and representation in food media. But Hilton has been given a massive megaphone by Netflix, and has only the imagination to use it to say, for instance, that Mexico is the place that reminds her of Taco Bell and Tulum; provided the opportunity to learn a single word, Hilton decides it’s cooler to live in a reality where she’s the boss.
Preparing food together, Hilton makes a show of her own ineptitude, and Kardashian West barely plays along. While the Kardashian family raise plenty of their own questions, Kim’s attitude of benign competence has lasted her through a decade-plus of cultural shifts. Hilton’s affected confusion at what normal people do is tougher to take.
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