The iconic 554 and wonton noodle soup live on at Wonton Gourmet in the suburb of Des Plaines.
Chung and Kai Au owned a wonton noodle shop in Hong Kong before they moved to Chicago. Chung, the family patriarch, immigrated first. Kai, the matriarch, closed the shop and then followed soon after with four of their five children, three daughters and the youngest son. Benjamin, their oldest, who was over 21, would be separated from his family for years due to U.S. immigration policy quotas.
Sometime in the mid-90s, a customer became obsessed with dish number 554 on the menu. As a white man who did not speak Chinese, he simply called the plate — with hot steamed rice, thick char siu, runny fried eggs and drizzled soy sauce — the 554. He brought fellow students from the University of Illinois at Chicago and they would all order the dish. It became so popular that everyone began calling it the 554, notably in English, not Chinese.
“My brother-in-law has been working since first he arrived in America,” said Frank Ting, owner of Wonton Gourmet in Des Plaines. “And he hasn’t taken any vacation in the last 20 years.”“And I say, ‘Do you want to retire?’ He said, ‘Yes, of course. I want to have some regular life now,’” Ting said. “That’s why he decided to close and to rent it out.”
For example, Happy Lamb Hot Pot, the restaurant leasing the Seven Treasures space, will move from its current location in Chinatown after renovations. Two other locations, in Lincoln Park and in Naperville, are also part of the Little Sheep Group with hundreds of restaurants worldwide.. But that’s only part of the story. The neighborhood still struggles with gentrification and displacement, especially with The 78 mega-development looming next to Ping Tom Park.
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