Author Rachel Roddy shares some of the lessons she's learned in her nearly two decades of cooking and living in Italy, with a particular emphasis on her current obsession: pasta. Plus, a recipe you’ll have on repeat.
/ Photographs by Andrea Wyner for The Wall Street Journal, food blogger and columnist Rachel Roddy had just returned from visiting a pecorino factory when we caught up with her in her kitchen in Rome. She copped to eating a lot of cheese and then returning home and eating more. She put it in her lunch of spaghetti cacio e pepe, which she made using the method she describes in her latest book, “An A to Z of Pasta: Recipes for Shapes and Sauces, from Alfabeto to Ziti, and Everything in Between” .
For the last 18 years, this British expat has lived in Testaccio, a wedge-shaped or, as she describes it, “cheese-shaped” quarter in the southwestern part of the city where she now shares an apartment with her partner, Vincenzo Caristia, a Sicilian drummer, and their 11-year-old son, Luca. “I do think I relearned to cook in Italy,” she said. Here, she shares some of those lessons—with a particular emphasis on her current obsession, pasta—plus a recipe you’ll have on repeat.
From left: key pantry items, stored within grabbing distance, right over the kitchen sink; some of Ms. Roddy's crockery.: pasta, maybe something else as well afterward. Probably once a week I’ll make it fresh. I really enjoy the stuffed shapes, like tortellini and ravioli. I get immense pleasure from them. Or lasagna. Lasagna still kills me.: eggs. I feel quite upset if we don’t have eggs. That’s my real fast food. For me, a three-egg omelet with cheese is heaven because it’s really filling.
: Sophia Loren—her cookbook. Maybe I’d take my biggest pasta pan too, because then I could put other things in it. I’d cheat. So I’d take my pasta pan and I’d throw in several books, and a mug made by a friend.: artichokes. At this time of year in Rome, artichokes are starting to be everywhere. And lots of asparagus, and lots of wild asparagus, and all those lovely spring greens. It’s quite nice to bridge that, isn’t it, with the last of the winter greens? Springing them up a bit.
Durum flour measured out for making pasta, along with fresh rosemary for the soup the pasta will cook in.From left: durum flour measured out for making pasta, along with fresh rosemary for the soup the pasta will cook in; maltagliati pasta, whose name means 'badly cut.': from the north of Italy. They have pizzoccheri, which is a pasta made with buckwheat flour. They cook the pizzoccheri with cabbage and potatoes. And basically, all of the elements go into the pan together.
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