See every look from Christian Cowan's fall 2023 collection:
When the design juices get flowing each season, it’s easy for designers to get swept up in a multitude of different inspirations or references. For Christian Cowan’s fall collection, however, he zeroed in on one clear muse: The late Judy Garland. Cowan’s new assortment paid homage to the legendary powerhouse singer, channeling the glitz and glamour she often embodied on stage; he’s also long admired her as a queer icon.
The designer didn’t want to just replicate famous garments worn by Garland, however. “I wanted to evoke her spirit,” Cowan said of a collection that was meant to razzle-dazzle. For instance, his assortment of silk cerulean dresses, some trimmed with feathers , referenced a specific blue dress Garland wore while performing in Europe. “She also loved a crystal-embroidered trim,” said Cowan, who applied some shimmery, dangly crystals onto black evening blazers or cigarette pants.
In keeping the seasonal inspiration so tight Cowan was able to exercise restraint and refine his craft this season. The designer was once synonymous with raucous downtown party wear, but he showed one of his most grown-up and sophisticated collections to date. . Cowan attributed his paring-back to “a realization I had a few months ago: The stuff I made when I was 22 is just not who I am anymore,” he said. “I listen to jazz and stay at home with a bubble bath. I wanted to reflect that.
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