Chez Panisse turns 50 this month. Critic Bill Addison asks: Is its greatest legacy on the plate or on the page?
As a restaurant cook, sure, I saw the worth in closing the gaps in our food system between cost and quality and deliciousness. In the day-to-day grind of kitchen work, Waters’ ideals also could seem unreachably lofty. Mostly I made chocolate cakes and crème brûlée and felt some private twinges of joy when things like actually in-season strawberries fit the restaurant budget. Shere liked to make strawberry shortcake with these dark rubies, so I did too.
Desserts made the most profound impression. Rhubarb had always been something to pair with strawberry almost as a filler: This was the first time I appreciated its clean, sour-tangy flavor on its own. The cornmeal cake, with its subtle crunch, reminded me of the South .The daily fruit bowl was a famously unembellished selection of sorted-through produce, the moment’s most perfect possible expression of California bounty.
Samuel had joined me for the San Francisco leg — I wanted specifically to bring him to Chez Panisse. He enjoyed dining in restaurants with me but found zero attraction to the cult of food. On his own, he’d go to Outback Steakhouse and order trout. He couldn’t recall ever hearing of Chez Panisse or Alice Waters. I took him to the downstairs restaurant, curious for his blank-slate opinion.
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