“A little bit more bite to it, and a little bit more chew.”
his first cookbook . He keeps bakers’ hours — which is to say, he’s up long before the sun — and he spends that time working on a few more projects in his kitchen, like gelato and a style of sausage that’s chopped by hand and which is, he admits, a little bit impractical.Two coffees made in the Moka pot at home and then 10-plus cups of espresso throughout the day. I always drank this much caffeine. I mean, I started drinking coffee when I was 10 or something. Now, I have a routine.
Italian almonds are crazy. We have three different varieties in the building at any given time. I don’t know if this is a fact — so take it for what it’s worth — but somebody told me there are 130 cultivars of almonds in Sicily alone. We sell a couple of Sicilian almonds, like Romana almonds and Pizzuta almonds, thatfrom the chef Corrado Assenza. They’re insane. They’re dry-farmed. The yields are much lower, but the flavors are much higher.
If you go to a butcher shop in Southern Italy, you can buy a lot of sausages that are punta di coltello —. It’s a hand-chopped sausage, and the texture is amazing. To actually pay someone to hand-chop sausage, well, the amount of time it takes is insane. But there’s also a tradition that people are going to pay a little more for. What you get is something I’ve always been looking for: a coarseness in a sausage, a little bit more bite to it, and a little bit more chew..
I think that it’s one of those things that I have ups and downs. Some days I really do think it’s great. Other days I feel more,. Am I satisfied with it? I don’t know. I’m not the kind of guy who pats himself on the back that much. I take home some leftover sugo from the coda alla vaccinara we served in the afternoon, and have it over rigatoni. We start by cooking really, really, really finely chopped carrots, onion, and celery in lardo for a long time. We render out the lardo, put in a whole chile or two, a couple of cloves. Brown the oxtail, add the tomato. Partway through, we put in whole pieces of celery and pine nuts and raisins.
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