Cheese Expert's Picks: 10 Essential Cheeses to Know and Love

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Cheese Expert's Picks: 10 Essential Cheeses to Know and Love
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You'd better believe that burrata and Comté are on our list of greatest hits.

Comté's production cycle and history have much in common with Gruyère. Produced in the Jura Massif region of Eastern France, Comté is both an AOC and AOP regulated cheese resulting for a careful partnership between 3,000 family farms, roughly 170. The breeds of cow whose exclusively raw milk may be used to make it are limited to Montbéliarde and French Simmental. They're fed a strict grass diet and silage feed is not allowed.

Unlike Gruyère, Comté milk is partially skimmed before heating in copper vats. The cheeses are similarly graded , but Comté wheels may age for as long as 18 months, and sometimes more. This age range is one of the challenges Comté in the U.S. market—it is, essentially, five cheeses in one category. Younger wheels are mild to the point of timidity , with pleasant but forgettable notes of butter and caramel. In France their intended use is for cooking, but in the States the price point on Comté turns even young cheeses into"special occasion" items put on cheese plates.

A better way to describe good, older Comté, as one cheesemonger friend of mine puts it, is"Saturday afternoon cheese." You could eat it all damn day. It's subtle, complex, and unbelievably moist. The flavor is smoother and less salty than Gruyère, and I find more stone fruit than Gruyère's beefiness. That said, Comté's subtlety is lost on folks raised on big, sharp, and butt-kicking flavor, and if you want a hugely assertive cheese, this isn't it.

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