“Is [Hedi] Slimane’s approach—his seemingly literal exhumation of classics and touchstone pieces—cynical or pragmatic? I happen to think the latter,' writes CathyHoryn PFW
Photo: Imaxtree. Illustration: Lauren Tamaki Halfway through designer Hedi Slimane’s Celine show last night—after a fleet of tousled-hair girls in boot-cut jeans, patchwork rodeo skirts, shearling vests, and poetic blouses of the ‘70s Left Bank genre—I was suddenly imagining Dolly Parton on the stage of the Grand Ole Opry singing “Jolene.”
Is Slimane’s approach—his seemingly literal exhumation of classics and touchstone pieces—-cynical or pragmatic? I happen to think the latter, even as I wished for a touch more variety in this show.
“I wanted it to look a bit aristocratic,” Anderson said. Indeed, the white lace dress could have been based on a christening gown. And take a look at the outline of those cocoon coats. Are they not a kind of palimpsest of Irving Penn’s 1950 photo of a model in Balenciaga’s black harem dress? And for fun, Owens invited some bubble artists to fill the terrace of the Palais de Tokyo—“to give the affair a bucolic lightheartedness I associate with the Mexico I used to know.”
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