'Every meal has been not only excellent and memorable but also imaginative and – in some ways – miraculous.'
It was in a barn in a field somewhere in Holderness. His kitchen was a former turnip shed so he decided his ambitious seven course tasting menu should feature turnip in every dish, even the desserts. An idea which seems ridiculous on the face of it, but proved to be triumphant.
The menu is a bobby dazzler. Suiting a restaurant that needs to both attract the tourists during summer and the locals when the nights draw in, it’s slightly less imaginative than I’ve come to expect from Martyn, but it’s still one of those that leaves you wondering which of its enticing offerings you have to defer till your next visit.
More fancy, but no less delicious, is warm herb-rolled pork with celeriac remoulade and smoked apple compote. A sizeable portion for a starter, the pork is meltingly droolworthy and the choice of accompaniments inspired. We’re off to a winning start. We’re already stuffed, but my dedication to thorough research demands we sample puds of passion fruit tart with vanilla ice cream and white chocolate ganache withstrawberries, gin and crushed flapjack. I struggle to identify how the gin was inserted into the dish, but I can definitely taste it and it adds an intriguing note to a deceptively complex-tasting dish. I found myself thinking about it a couple of days later and wanting to eat it all over again. Always a good sign.
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