Carte Blanche has created a lot of buzz in Dallas, not just for its high-end tasting menu, but also for a bit of controversy surrounding the chef. Here Hank Vaughn seeks to strip away all the political theater and see how the food comparatively fares.
last summer, when Carte Blanche opened in 2021, chef and owner Casey La Rue represented himself as someone who had worked at several Michelin-starred restaurants in the U.S., including Joël Robuchon in Las Vegas and Per Se, Thomas Keller’s restaurant in New York that has been awarded three Michelin stars.
One can dive deeply into the minutiae here, with W-2 tax forms and claims of working under a different name, with backs and forths between food writers and La Rue. Sides have been formed, and the importance of ethics in relation to the quality of food has been debated. But throughout it all we just wanted to see how the food fared with all the political theater stripped away, at least for one night, while we waited for the ball to drop in Times Square and left 2022 in our rearview mirror.
Next, a couple of boar-centric courses: smoked boar shoulder and boar belly burnt ends served with quail. The shoulder came in a bite-sized package with charred blackberries and fennel pollen, creatively presented and appreciated before we plopped them into our mouths. The boar belly was served along with a quail drumstick on a grilling grate. Both were perfectly seasoned and full of outdoor flavor.
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