Sexy enough to make Escoffier blush.
Mornay and Mushroom Duxelles Burger With Crispy ShallotsI think it's safe to say that before my esteemed colleague Max spoke these words, I'd never considered what making out with Escoffier might have been like. As soon as he said it, though, I somehow knew it was true. There's just something about this burger that seems...postcoital. I feel dirty just looking at it.
French food goes in and out of style every few years, at least in the trendisphere, with food glossies declaring the return ofon the semi-regular. There's actually some truth to it, as many of the world's other great culinary traditions have grown in popularity and the hot spots of innovation have shifted, eclipsing what was once France's near-singular grasp on the Western food imagination.
Take, for example, the mushroom duxelles here. Mushrooms on burgers are definitely nothing new. But the usual suspects are either a giant portobello cap or sliced sautéed 'shrooms. Those can be good, but I wasn't convinced that they're the best way to add mushroom flavor to a burger. Meaty and juicy, a good burger doesn't need to double down on those qualities with a slab of portobello.
A surprise benefit: For anyone who, whether for reasons of preference or autoimmune necessity, must eat a well-done burger, duxelles manage to introduce a juicy, rare-meat quality back to the burger to counter what would otherwise just be overly dry, crumbly beef. Don't get me wrong: I'm not recommending overcooking your burgers, I'm just saying duxelles have a way of offsetting the effect if you do.
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