WWD's Executive Editor bridgetpfoley spoke to Wes Gordon about his early impact at Carolina Herrera.
A vibrant installation greeted visitors to the Carolina Herrera showroom, where last week Wes Gordon showed his resort collection for the brand. The clothes and potted flowering plants were bright and pretty, in keeping with the vision Gordon saw for the house when he first signed on as a consultant working under “Mrs. Herrera,” and with which he forged ahead upon taking full creative control after her retirement.
Not a bad place to be, visually speaking. Gordon’s office is a lovely, mostly tidy space, though the coffee table in front of the bright red sofa is strewn with inspiration printouts, soon to be tacked onto the corkboard image wall. Right now, that board is vibrant orange; by Monday, when a photographer arrives to take Gordon’s picture, it will be pink. He repaints it in a new, happy color each season.
He credits Herrera with the savvy to have built that highly skilled atelier and for creating the collaborative atmosphere within which staffers feel pride in and take ownership of their work. It’s an aura he wants to continue, boasting that “not one person has been added or left from the atelier since Mrs. Herrera retired.”
What it can be, and where Gordon has taken it very obviously during his short time at the helm, is in a younger direction. The clothes still feel in tune with the long-established character of the house, polished yet flamboyant. They’re not casual per se; the Herrera woman loves to get dressed.
But not one that the disrespects the past. Nor does it merely celebrate youth on the runway and then temper the clothes for real-customer resonance. “It’s so passé, this idea that we’ll do a short, fun little dress for young girls, but there aren’t many of them [who can afford it], so it’s really editorial. And then we’ll do the below-the-knee version with a cap sleeve, and that’s the production version for the older client,” Gordon says. “No one falls for that. Everyone wants fabulous.
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