Breville's New Multicooker Delivers Consistent, Tasty Results

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Breville's New Multicooker Delivers Consistent, Tasty Results
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WIRED A smart and solidly built new take on its similarly named predecessor. TIRED It's struggling to keep up with the times. Like much of the competition, it has a domed cooking surface and can’t manage a proper sear.

; we no longer need to lean on recipe help from the companies that make the machines.

I was excited to try this new model from the consistently solid kitchen product manufacturer Breville. To test it, I went with a bunch of pressure-cooker classics from these authors, which allowed me to pay attention to the machine itself. I made chicken soup, chicken chili, a fun and not-so-classic shrimp and farro dish, and a big bowl of hummus. I appreciated the Go's ability to handle basics like softening and browning onions, a flavor-building first step in many pressure-cooker recipes. I admired its sturdy build, an improvement on many industry stalwarts that struck me as a little flimsy or plasticky. I loved the ability to read the display from across the room.

Here's the funny thing with the Breville Go: Compared to the Pro, it feels a lot like the same car with a different accessories package. After a five-year hiatus, Breville failed to fix some flaws, and there are industry innovations I'm surprised it didn't keep up with. First, the Go struggles to sear, an issue that plagues almost all pressure cookers.

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