Former employees detail the working conditions at Dan Barber's acclaimed restaurant.
While McCarron’s report is worth reading in full, a few episodes in particular illustrate the unsustainable working environment that existed at Blue Hill at least from 2014 to 2020, the time period that McCarron covers. Temper tantrums and angry outbursts have long been documented in some of the world’s best kitchens, and Barber seems to have carried on that tradition. Employees said Barber made them cry on multiple occasions, and some picked up his practices and bullied others in return.
The behind-the-scenes infractions are pretty damning all on their own. But even beyond that, McCarron explains how Blue Hill, which prides itself on its innovative use of the natural environment and local farming, is not so up front about its practices and ingredients when talking with guests. Some diners were treated to a slow-poached egg pulled straight out of Blue Hill’s compost oven—except one employee recalled having placed fully cooked eggs into the oven before guests arrived.
In another example, employees would churn butter right in front of guests, talking about Blue Hill Farm and its cows. However, oftentimes the butter was made with cream from another dairy farm. In all, the report is an unflattering portrayal of one of the world’s most acclaimed restaurants—one that punctures its idyllic image of itself. But the last couple years have show that what is alleged in the Eater article is not entirely uncommon in the restaurant industry.
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