A frozen treat puts the jammy summer fruit front and center.
But when the thermostat starts to climb, it's worth working with direct heat on the stovetop if that means keeping the oven off and the kitchen cool. Especially when it comes to blackberry ice cream, where the fruity base can benefit from the deeper, jammy flavors cultivated by direct heat.
Once the berries are swimming in juice, bring the mixture to a simmer over medium heat and cook until reduced by 14 ounces—a process that's dead easy to monitor with a digital scale . After the reduction, I strain the mixture to extract the concentrated blackberry purée and remove the bitter seeds. In the end, I discard about 10 ounces of seedy pulp, leaving me with about 20 ounces of concentrated, lightly sweetened blackberry purée. This is cut with a splash of fresh cream, giving the base all the structure it needs to churn up thick and light down the road.
However the base is adjusted, it needs to be refrigerated until thick and cold, no warmer than 40°F . This can be done rather quickly in an ice bath, or passively in the fridge, before churning in an ice cream maker.
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