When Andy Reyes rhapsodizes about the perfect bowl of birria, he has generations of his forebears speaking through him. LatinoVoicesWTTW
, the family’s birria recipe goes back to 1926, when his great-grandfather developed his own version of the stewed goat dish in Ocotlan, Jalisco. When Andy’s father, Ramon Reyes, immigrated to the Chicago area, he brought the Reyes birria know-how with him.
In 1973, Ramon Reyes made good on that prediction. He took over a small diner at 87th Street and Commercial Avenue and began selling the family specialty. A second location on 106th Street was added in 1992. Over the years, all four of Ramon and Linda Reyes’ children worked at the family restaurants.
“I remember making my debut officially when I was 8 years old,” Andy Reyes said. “He’d sit me down in the corner, you know, a chubby little kid eating my taco. I started working here in high school. I remember I used to play football; I would have practice on Saturdays. After practice, all my friends would go hang out. I’d come here.”
“I wasn’t ready, but luckily I have my sisters,” Andy Reyes said. “That’s the beautiful thing about having a family business: You won’t be alone.”
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