The Berwickshire coastal path links the far north-east of England with the far south-east of Scotland
Imagine passing through Dorset, Cornwall, North Yorkshire, the West of Ireland and East Anglia on one 45-mile walk.The coastal path, from Berwick-upon-Tweed to Cocksburnpath, is fairly new, sandwiched between more famous trails named after a saint, Cuthbert , and a proto-environmentalist, John Muir .I started in fine, breezy weather at the Magdalene Fields golf club, north of Berwick and a five-minute walk from the train station.
The route skirts the first of several holiday parks and golf courses, the calm, purple-great expanse of the North Sea always just to your right. The early miles are a bit scrappy, until you enter a narrow fern and sheep-filled path tight by the railway line on your left and the dizzying cliffs on your right.The border is just before Burnmouth. There is a big sign on the path welcoming you to Scotland: nothing as you enter England. This was the last part of the border to be established, in 1482.
It has had a turbulent past, Eyemouth. On the clifftop, there are green ramparts and a couple of rusty old cannons, all that remain of a short-lived fort that found itself at the centre of English, Scottish and French rivalries following the death of Henry VIII.until you reach the high grassy knoll that protects the curve of Coldingham Bay. This is a proper holiday beach with a row of coloured bathing huts, a whitewashed beach cafe surfers, wild swimmers and hurtling, damp dogs everywhere.
I finally wound down to a temporary sanctuary at the Pease Bay caravan park, then the night’s lodgings in a small pod in the Wigwam site.
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