Welcome to the new luxury.
amplified the adventurous wardrobe proposed in his debut. “It’s taking things a step further,” the designer excitedly explained backstage, “I like to think it’s more fashion forward.” This was a bolder, sexier, sharper Berluti. “This is a man’s brand, there is no doubt, but it’s nice to play with seduction too,” he explained when asked about Gigi Hadid closing the show in a sleeveless suit tufted with ostrich feathers.
Freed from historic ready-to-wear archives, the Londerzeel-born, Paris-based artistic director is breaking the mold and recreating it in his own image. Throughout this collection he’s striking a balance between observing the artisanal heritage of Berluti, but also crafting an enduring luxury wardrobe for a new multi-faceted man .
For his Berluti debut, Kris's starting point was a trip to the Ferrara-based factory and the contrasting sight of old marble tables transformed by the craftsman and their hand-dying patina. Inspired, he painted his first collection in the multi-hued stains of their surfaces.
The sentiment of spectrum was echoed in technique too as the marble and patina stain motif of silk shirts was first woven into a jacquard, then printed with the marble pattern, and finally overprinted with the multi-coloured stains. For Kris, it’s all about a considered clash of worlds, old and new. As the new direction of Berluti is heightened, so is tradition. The patina suit -- originally inspired by the classic Alessandro shoe – was embossed with the maison’s heritage scritto motif.
Elsewhere, a nail-head surface decoration was introduced in homage to the shoemaking core of Berluti, in the all-over embellishment of a leather suit, a sweatshirt, and on the sole of shoes too. “When I went to the factory where they hand-make the shoes, I was struck that the workers put the nails into their mouths as they work,” Kris explained. “I was inspired that this ingenuity is hidden so I wanted to use the nails as an embellishment.
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