Behind the bonkers tale of a cocaine-fueled night at Chez Panisse.
In an interview with BA, Tower discussed his own drug use, the way it interfered with the restaurant, and how he views the recent mainstream backlash towards toxic restaurant culture.You're not a newcomer to writing. What drew you to the Substack newsletter format?. So I thought if Ruth, with all her experience, had a Substack, so would I. Since I have about a terabyte of [photos, videos, menus, and essays], it’s time to haul it out of the oven.
Well it was the seventies for God’s sake. Even up until the early ’80s I was working 90 hours a week. I would be on the road by 6 a.m. to go to the markets, then I’d cook lunch, then I’d cook dinner. My sous chef was the one who introduced me to cocaine. At around eight o’clock, after you’ve been there for 12 or 14 hours, cocaine’s the thing. And it also was the only drug that didn’t change your taste in food.when we were doing a Moroccan dinner, and everything seemed fabulous.
Absolutely. That was my first, I mean I’d had grass before, but not in the restaurant. It just doesn't work. Everything seems fabulous when it rarely ever is.Well, it was pretty terrible coke. So, you know, one line, and I felt absolutely fine.There was a conga line that went all the way upstairs into the cafe, and I just kept on cooking.
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