Balmain RTW Fall 2023

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.Balmain's Olivier Rousteing revisited mid-century couture with a deft hand.

Europe’s historic fashion houses are leaning into heritage this season, and Balmain is no exception. Olivier Rousteing has been excavating Balmain’s history over the past few years, notably surfacing a Labyrinth monogram that quickly became a strong franchise for the house alongside knitwear and its heavily embellished cocktail attire.

Taking a break from wide, pagoda shoulders and freaky Frankenstein boots, although he still wears them himself, the designer interpreted more demure, midcentury silhouettes with a deft hand. This Balmain show was a civilized affair with free-flowing Champagne, plush banquettes, 250 guests max and Frank Sinatra crooning — a far cry from its recent stadium spectacles with musical performers, mojitos in plastic cups and exaggerated creations visible from the nosebleed seats.

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