Bagels have a hole lot to learn from English muffins.
It established my benchmarks for what makes a good slice: thin and airy with a well-cooked crust; sufficiently sauced, but not too thick a layer that the slick of sweet, slightly acidic tomato impedes the cheese from adhering to the dough. It’s a simple set of dictums from a reputable source.
Be it myth or legend, most New Yorkers believe the city’s pizzas and bagels are superior because of the soft water. The majority of that water comes from the—the thing my hometown is most famous for—which, upon completion in 1906, was the tallest dam in the world, and the third largest hand-hewn structure after the Pyramid of Giza and the Great Wall of China. Holding nearly 20 billion gallons of water amongst 1 million cubic yards of masonry, it’s quite a feat to behold.
I now live in Brooklyn, New York, arguably the epicenter of contemporary pizza culture with the impenetrablemere blocks from my apartment. I make my own dough at home with high hydrations and long fermentations. I even built a wood-fire oven in northern Michigan where I vacation every summer. All year round, I think about what kinds of pies I’ll bake. This past summer was the first in a decade and a half that I didn’t go up north, and for good reason: My son was born.
One night, while at home trying to feed my new nuclear family of three in a pinch, I reached for a leftover bagel to make into pizza.
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