For the best braised baccalà, make your own salt cod.
Salt-curing center-cut cod fillets produces nicely seasoned and textured baccalà that's perfect for braising.
Skipping the traditional pan-searing step for the baccalà helps to highlight the delicate texture of homemade salt cod, and makes this a one-pan recipe. The winter holiday season in Italy is also prime baccalà season. In Central and Southern Italy, salt cod features heavily on Christmas Eve menus—you can find it, flaked and tossed with potatoes and onion as a salad, simmered into a tomato sauce for pasta, or, in this case, braised in large fillets as a secondo. In Livorno, a seaside town in Tuscany, baccalà is traditionally braised with tomato and potato for a hearty main course.
For most recipes, slight differences in salt levels don’t end up being that noticeable. The intensity of, for example, is tempered by potato and dairy. But in baccalà alla napoletana, there’s no wiggle room. I was also running into problems with the pieces of cod themselves. This dish is meant to feature meaty, thick portions of baccalà, but here in the US, shoppers rarely have a say about the size of the pieces they purchase, and often end up with thin scraps from the tail or belly.
I pack thick cod fillets in kosher salt in a baking dish and refrigerate them for two days, redistributing salt as needed to keep the fish completely covered . I then rinse the cod and soak it in water for another two days, to tone down the saltiness of the fish.
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