At Valentino, a Shift to Simplicity

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At Valentino, a Shift to Simplicity
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Plus: Gaultier gets its impudent outrage from the subculture.

, both of whom had excellent shows, stuffed their collections with dressy trousers and jackets, and Armani, using a lot of Chinese red and heritage patterns, offered the kind of slim-fitting, unimpeachably pretty gowns that actresses will like, especially at awards season. But Jones was one of the few designers this week who thought to include short, so-called cocktail dresses in the line. Expertly draped, without adornment, they looked great.

Another thing I liked was how he used the corset, if you can call the taut central panel in some of his dresses. It added an athletic feel without losing the overall polish of the clothes. The collection marked the launch of the brand’s fine-jewelry line, designed by Delfina Delettrez Fendi.

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