It’s part café, part bar, part bakery, and part gourmet food shop
At Lodi, the chocolate croissants are made with ancient wheat. Photo: Melissa Hom When the powers that be in the Rockefeller Center leasing department first approached Ignacio Mattos to help usher in a new culinary era for the midtown landmark, he was up for the challenge.
Mattos wants Lodi to be an anchor for the neighborhood, and to that end, he’s established an ambitious baking program that incorporates a variety of house-milled flours in breads like the fermented rye used for tramezzini and in pastries like einkorn chocolate croissants. The flours will also be offered for retail sale, along with Italian pantry items and sliced-to-order salumi and cheese.
To make the space both elegant and flexible, Mattos enlisted architect Richard H. Lewis and designer Ian McPheely, whose past work includes frequent collaborations with Keith McNally. They refreshed the existing café-bakery layout with curving counters, a barrel-vaulted ceiling, and wheat motifs in the millwork. They took cues from the Art Deco surroundings for details like the floor’s snazzy black border.
There are bar stools inside, tablecloths and waiter service outside, and a few substantial main courses, like vitello tonnato and baccalà alla Livornese. But Mattos says he’ll be just as happy selling takeout sandwiches to the office crowd as providing theatergoers and museum browsers with a polished pit stop that’s neither as structured as a restaurant nor as impersonal as a coffee shop. You might think of Lodi as something like Frenchette Bakery crossed with Sant Ambroeus.
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