At Tory Burch, the opposite.
Before joining the Cut in 2015, she was fashion critic at the New York Times from 1999 to 2014.From left: Carolina Herrera, Gabriela Hearst, Tory BurchReviews, trends and what’s happening on-and-off the runway.Photo-Illustration: by The Cut; Photos: Getty Images, Gabriela Hearst, Tory Burchcan’t design a collection without a theme, despite the fact that dozens of remarkable designers over the past century have done just that.
The statement seems spurious, given the scholarship available and that her show lasted about six minutes. How many Druid prophets do you need to make a gown look modern? The point here is that Hearst has never needed a highfalutin themeThis collection exemplified the design principle of reduction. None of the 36 looks had more detail or texture —— than it needed. Some critics complained that the predominantly long dresses and pantsuits, in black, ivory, and silver, lacked newness.
For me, that was the big change this season. Her opening looks set the tone: the long, sweeping lines of a pair of ivory coats, one with full sleeves that ended in a soft gather at the elbows for a poetic effect; masculine pantsuits in the same relaxed form, with one mixing a black blazer with sheer, wide-leg black trousers for a newer, mismatched look; and a flowing, ankle-length dress in white crochet.
Hearst maintained that sense for the rest of the show — substance but no excess. She showed a pleated, low-slung skirt in ivory cashmere gauze, with frayed edges, worn with a sleeveless black leather bodysuit that was notched open slightly at the sides for a cooler attitude; and an austere ivory silk satin A-line gown with feathery bits on the lower portion, an effect achieved by both embroidery and pulling threads of the silk.
The collection was also a testament to how long it can take a designer to develop her sensibility. Hearst started her label more than eight years ago, and she went on a lot of gung-ho excursions to reach this sharp point. With any luck, we won’t hear about Druids or fusion power again.
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