Pearl River Deli brilliantly bridges the past and future of L.A.'s Cantonese restaurant culture
Patrons dine at Pearl River Deli.
. Lee once wrote there, “We’re gonna continue the ethos of what’s driven us since the beginning: We cook whatever we want and feel like.” Short-run specials disappear fast, sometimes maddeningly so.But, to paraphrase words that came to mind when I saw an original “Star Wars” poster among the framed images that fill the restaurant’s back wall, this Death Star is now fully operational.
You can depend on the constant presence of char siu — the pork belly fat deeply rendered, the arching crown of each slice reddened and caramelized from a glaze heady with five-spice. A plate comes with either rice or egg noodles . The “silky shrimp scramble” — sometimes made with crab, or served in a shallow pool of crab gravy — is a shape-shifter that lately has settled into the form of a beautifully pale omelet.
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