A painful investigation
Photo: Madeleine Aggeler Over Easy is a weekly food column by a 20-something woman who can barely cook an egg and just wants to learn how to throw together an elegant three-course meal for her friends.
In the years since, doughnuts have become more and more elaborate — ring-shaped dough canvases on which artisans build their colorful, indulgent creations. Often there’s bacon. That’s great, and I appreciate the thought and creativity that goes into making these, but in my humble, sugar-addled opinion, there is nothing better than the classic, fluffy, buttery, melt-in-your-mouth glazed doughnut that you can eat without immediately having to take a three-hour nap.
The first step in Bittman’s recipe is to combine yeast with warm milk and wait about five minutes until it’s “foamy,” but I wasn’t sure how foamy he meant, so after 15 minutes I moved along even though the milk looked decidedly un-frothed. You then mix the yeasty-milk with two eggs, a melted, cooled stick of butter, salt, and sugar. When that’s all combined, you mix in just over two cups of flour, and then when that’s all combined, you mix in two more.
Once the dough rings were all laid out on some floured baking sheets, I covered them with tea towels and let them rise for 45 minutes. While I waited, I poured two quarts of oil in a large pot, and heated it to 375-degrees. As I checked the temperature with a thermometer, I felt apprehensive — one clumsy misstep and I could scald myself, or worse, my dog, with hot oil. Also my apartment’s hypersensitive fire alarm can be set off by the heat of a strong sneeze, so I knew I had to work quickly.
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