Jonathan Gold on Anthony Bourdain. BourdainDay
Anthony Bourdain rides a train from Colombo, Sri Lanka north to Jaffna, Sri Lanka on May 25, 2017.
If you spent much time in food circles around the year 2000, you knew that American food culture was beginning to change — and not necessarily toward the embrace of the seasonable, sustainable, organic pleasures promised by the food revolution. Chefs had been part of popular culture for years.
Anthony Bourdain’s first articles for the New Yorker, which became the foundation for his first book, “Kitchen Confidential,” slashed through the walls separating working-class cooks from their soft, well-fed customers, and for perhaps the first time since George Orwell’s “Down and Out in Paris and London,” elevated the rough humanity of the kitchen above the soft pleasures of the table.
Bourdain wrote for the people with sheet pan burns on their arms and bits of flour stuck in their hair; for the people who found the deepest parts of themselves inside the stinking cavities of the pigs they were breaking down for dinner service; and for the people who cursed equally well in English and in Spanish.
“Parts Unknown,” his series for CNN, at times fused the culinary with the political. Bourdain looked for answers about the future of places such as Libya, Ethiopia and the Punjab region of India through their food cultures, and he was occasionally less than optimistic.From the outside, his last year seemed devoted to combating sexual harassment through his passionate advocacy of the #MeToo movement.
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