There's a $222 million market for this cheese, and everyone wants a slice.
NICOSIA, Cyprus — Dairy farmers on Cyprus refer to halloumi as “white gold.” The salty, rubbery cheese made from goat and sheep milk and prized for its ability to withstand a grill without melting is the country’s leading export.
Cyprus was split along ethnic lines in 1974 when Turkey invaded in the wake of a coup by supporters of union with Greece. The country joined the EU in 2004, but EU rules and regulations only apply to the southern, Greek Cypriot part of the island led by an internationally recognized government. But Turkish Cypriot authorities say there was no such understanding. They accuse Greek Cypriots of blocking the European Commission’s effort to enable halloumi/hellim exports from the island’s north.
The European Commission says it’s in contact with the Cypriot government and Turkish Cypriots to “ensure an outcome.” For halloumi/hellim t o secure the designation, it must conform to a Cyprus government directive that it must contain at least 51% sheep’s and goats’ milk. That’s in line with a traditional Cypriot recipe dating back some 500 years when cows were a rare commodity. Now, the cheese is made with mostly cow’s’ milk.
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