Barbie food collabs are everywhere this summer. We tried them.
The interior of the Malibu Barbie Cafe
If you’ve been to the American Girl Café, you’ll immediately already understand the business model of the Malibu Barbie Cafe pop-up in New York City. Extremely thematic and immersive. Disproportionately expensive. Catered to children. I attended this very Malibu Barbie Café in New York’s Seaport, hosted in a space that regularly morphs into different pop-ups throughout the year, for which I’d prepaid a whopping $44 for one “adult”-size entrée .
My “Beach Burger,” despite the fact that it cost $44, was actually good. It looked fake and plasticky upon arrival—as it should—but the bun was super buttery and the two burger patties were charred and juicy. Slim on the toppings front , but the cheese and mayo/ketchup-y sauce were pleasantly average. The fries were thin and crispy—very run-of-the-mill restaurant fries—served with ketchup and garlic aioli.
If the Dream House garage has Barbie’s hot pink convertible, then the Dream House fridge would be decked out with cans of Swoon’s Barbie pink lemonade. The can is marbled with hyperpop swirls and announcements of its 0 grams of sugar and monk fruit sweetener. The lemonade itself looks like liquefied cotton candy. If appearances were anything to go by, the Swoon was very promising.
Unfortunately, where the special edition Barbie drink fell short was taste. It evoked neither the lemon nor the strawberry advertised on the can. It was more like a diluted V8 made with not-quite-ripe tomatoes, but with a vinegary sourness and salty aftertaste. Barbie would do it for the set design. She would do it to support her fellow girlie. But this Barbie is not making a repeat purchase. 3.6/5 Barbie.
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