The “Gold: Les Ors d’Yves Saint Laurent” exhibition marks 60 years since the couturier’s first eponymous collection by exploring his love of glitz.
Six chapters grew from an initial selection of 40 textile creations, retracing 40 years of fashion but also a four-decade-long slice of life in the 20th century.
“Those are two elements that touch always and were always [present] in his work and life,” said the artist, who also liked the idea of materializing Saint Laurent and Pierre Bergé’s lifelong collecting of art of all epochs by participating. Glittering from every surface are the “golden scissors” award he received, body casts created in collaboration with sculptor Claude Lalanne in 1969, the “Champagne” perfume that was later renamed to “Yvresse” after lawsuits by France’s Champagne producers and even hair turned into spun gold – a braided headdress figuring a Rapunzel-like cascade of blond tresses, as worn by the bride of the Saint Laurent fall 1967 collection.
Mingling among the Rive Gauche and haute couture silhouettes is a deceptively simple black tux figuring Saint Laurent himself, whose voice can be heard on the soundtrack, blended with music of era. Back on the ground floor, to embody the jewelry that sprang from his lasting collaboration with Loulou de la Falaise on costume jewelry, Janssen called upon editor of art objects Anna Klossowski, also her daughter and his goddaughter, for the “Light Me Up!” installation that displays accessories in a chronological and chromatical retelling of decades of their collaboration.
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