American farms can't produce caviar cheaply enough to compete with China, and a deluge of cheap imported fish eggs are threatening its status as a luxury good.
Various types of caviar. By Laura Reiley Laura Reiley Reporter covering the business of food Email Bio Follow April 22 at 7:00 AM It was a 1980s Wall Street cliche. Tiny pancakes, huge egos and gobs of glossy black fish eggs from the Caspian Sea hoovered up on little mother-of-pearl spoons. Beluga, osetra and sevruga — most Americans had no idea these were species of sturgeon, but it was clear eating a whole lot of salted, unfertilized roe was a signal that you had arrived.
A generation ago, Americans looked to the foods of the Old World for status signalers. Fancy food was dominated by imports: foie gras and truffles, a first-growth Bordeaux down to an icy bottle of Heineken. Baby boomers identified with the champagne wishes and caviar dreams of “Lifestyles of the Rich and Famous.”
Since then, the United States has repeatedly, and largely unsuccessfully, attempted to farm caviar domestically, mostly the lesser white sturgeon species. Meanwhile, China has emerged as dominant: China exported more than 130 metric tons of caviar in 2017; the United States produced just under 16 metric tons. The U.S. imported $7 million in Chinese caviar in 2017, a number that has quintupled since 2012.
The FDA said that FDA-regulated products imported into the United States must comply with the same FDA laws and regulations that apply to domestic products. “Will additional tariffs on Chinese give the U.S. a fighting chance? I personally doubt it. Every Michelin-starred restaurant has been using Chinese caviar for the past five years. The quality is so good, so consistent. ”In 2015, a study in the Journal of Applied Ichthyology found that just 10 out of 27 caviar samples were properly labeled. Many claimed to be sturgeon but were actually other species, and several had no animal DNA at all.
“Borax is a fantastic shelf-life extender,” he says, adding that its presence in imports has gone largely undetected. “It’s under the radar screen for the FDA because it’s small potatoes. ” FDA officials did not respond to requests for comment about the prevalence of the banned substance in caviar imports.In the wild, beluga take more than 20 years to reach sexual maturity and may live 100 years and weigh two tons .
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