This temple to fire and smoke puts subtle flavours first, offering far more than just ‘dude food’, says Jay Rayner
, the wellspring for much of north London’s overly developed sourdough habit. The brewery doesn’t just provide beers to go with the food. By-products from brewing, such as yeast and spent grains, are used to make ferments and sauces.Photograph: Sophia Evans/The Observerreaders among you. Statement of the obvious: none of this would be important if the food wasn’t good. A great beard, tats and leaping flames do not dinner make. Happily, much of it is good. We start with their devilled eggs.
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