How I became the keeper of my mother-in-law’s spinach rice recipe.
I started a pandemic kitchen notebook in April 2020, three weeks into California’s first lockdown
Flipping through its pages now reveals, among other things, my family’s wild, varied, voracious appetite. It also tells me that there are some firm favorites in our household. Exhibit A: Spinach rice. I see it appear in my impatient scrawl over and over, at least every other week. My kids would say it’s one of my signature dishes, and they’re probably right. But thinking of its origins always makes me smile.
These days, finding a bag of prewashed spinach in our refrigerator is still pretty much guaranteed. And while I’m happy to throw a handful of it into everything from pasta to casseroles and quesadillas, odds are that sooner rather than later, I’m adding it to rice. I come from a long line of accomplished, passionate home cooks. Things many Tamilian families would gladly buy at a store—pickles, masala podis, snacks, time-consuming desserts—were prepared by my mother and grandmother at home, from scratch. Their marble-floored kitchen was a workhorse, with three stoves, open shelving, and two ceiling fans to keep the hot Chennai air moving. The bulk of their day was spent in meal planning, preparation, and consumption.
This was what made my mother-in-law’s seemingly small gesture that June afternoon feel so significant. It was the first time I was going to learn a recipe from her. We could both see this occasion for what it was: a hand outstretched, a culinary drawbridge lowered. She laughed. “Be patient. Look at the spinach: It’s wilted but still too wet. It’ll show you when it’s ready.”
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