Eggcellent.
Inside could be two deep orange yolks or a single one as fat and yellow as a buttercup. When it’s boiled, there’s no way to tell if the egg is runny or set, with a yolk that’s smooth, fudgy, or the texture of a rubber boot. Food writer M.F.K. Fisher famously wrote: “Probably one of the most private things in the world is an egg before it is broken.” That’s just the trouble with eggs.
No wonder that egg is at the heart of some of our most healing meals. A boiled egg with soldiers is a panacea for the weak and weary, while scrambled eggs can soften even the bleakest hangover. Egg fried rice is an elixir for my girlfriend when her mental or physical health is waning. Some people even drink raw eggs, Rocky Balboa style, as workout fuel. Cooking personalities from Julia Child to Delia Smith have schooled us in the ways of cooking omelets, poached eggs, and eggs en cocotte.
Follow an egg down the road less traveled—not to the plate but to the chicken coop, nestled safe under the bum of a doting mother hen—and a whole new story unfolds. When fertilized and incubated, a single, simple egg creates a whole new life. It is the sign of Easter rebirth, fertility, resurrection, abundance, and even life itself, depending on where in the world you’re from. Some historical forms of fortune-telling have involved “reading” the form of a cracked egg white.
It makes sense, then, given all the wonder that the humble egg contains, that it should also be a building block for things far bigger than omelets. The egg is where I turn when the kitchen has become a stale, stifling place, when I’m deep in the food rut and no longer see magic in the meals I cook. Eggs are a reminder of all the weird, fantastical chemistry contained within every bite we eat. Next time you’re flummoxed for meal ideas in the kitchen, think eggs.
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