'These designers stay true to their own voices instead of conforming. They don't try to grow by distorting their message — they push themselves to make it louder.'
"What the designers have in common is not just creativity, but a commitment to a vision of the world which, compared to 20 years ago, is very different," Serge Carreira, head of the Emerging Designers Initiative at the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode — which governs Paris Fashion Week — says. "Of course, design is always a mirror to culture and society, but they're directly contributing to change.
Julie Gilhart, a fashion consultant and the chief development officer of brand accelerator Tomorrow Ltd., points to brands like Botter and Rokh, which present ideas that push the fashion landscape forward as a whole. "Larger brands are definitely addressing some topics, but these brands have an assertiveness that larger brands don't have as much," she says. "They're bringing an energy that reflects them.
Ludovic de Saint Sernin is similarly rewriting the codes of luxury. While the designer's material choices, like wool fromand louche chiffon, feed into institutional expectations, his throbbingly sexual approach to dressing stirs an often neutered fashion sphere.
It isn't to say his work is derivative: Its steamy provocation reaches beyond the past and into new territory. He approaches masculinity with an impressive tenderness; femininity is treated the exact same. The body is a canvas for sexual expression, and as conservative streaks run amok across the world, de Saint Sernin shows how clothing can be a tool for expressing sexuality.
Another jolt to the system, Ester Manas challenges the status quo of casting at European fashion weeks with an inclusive attitude towards body diversity. Each garment is originally fitted on co-founder Ester Manas herself, the stretchy fabrics designed to accommodate many sizes. While size diversity among models has received more attention over the past years, founders Manas and Balthazar Delepierre have expressed Models at Ester Manas' Fall 2022 show.
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