High jewelry – exclusive by nature – has spent the past year reckoning with issues of accessibility and diversity. Now, author Melanie Grant has joined forces with Sotheby's to spotlight Black artists, and inspire a new generation of makers
has traditionally favored ‘Africa-inspired’ design over designers of African descent. But Melanie Grant, journalist and author of, hopes to remedy that with a first-of-its-kind selling exhibition, in partnership with Sotheby’s New York.will showcase the work of 21 Black designers from across the US and Europe. The show, curated by Grant in partnership with Sotheby's director of jewelry Frank Everett, will feature roughly 60 pieces, with prices starting at $1,500.
This landmark price tag reflects Grant’s belief that, “economic power is the basis for real change,” and represents a watershed moment for an industry which has historically been dominated by the white, wealthy, and well-connected. There are various reasons for this. For one thing, high-level collectors are far more likely to buy from established brands. “Why would they choose you over somebody they've already spoken to for generations?” Grant says.
For independent designers without a hefty marketing budget, building a profile is challenging, and the other designers involved inecho Castro’s sentiment. London-based maker Thelma West is contributing a ring called ‘Rebel Black’, so named for its inky band and longer-than-average pear-cut diamond. “As a creator you need your work to get enough eyes,” she says.
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