A new book celebrates the history of the iconic cocktail and our current “golden age.”
On martinis, cocktail gatekeepers of the last decade — writers, consultants, craft bartenders and the like — have been united: There is one “correct” martini, and it is made with gin, a good measure of dry vermouth, an optional dash of orange bitters and a lemon twist. You can futz with the ratio of gin to vermouth if you’d like, but stray too far from that formula and you are mixing up an affront to history.Martini fundamentalists will be aghast, then, when they walk into one of L.A.
“We did not shy away from serving martinis,” says David Kaplan, the bar’s founder and co-owner, “because it was another soapbox we could stand on top of. ‘Let me tell you why the gin martini is the best martini — the ONLY martini!’” Everyone is wrong about the martini, because everyone is right about the martini, and everyone can’t be right. Get it?“Now, among the ‘Illuminati’ of the cocktail world, there’s an absolute respect for people’s preferences,” says Alex Day, who worked behind the bar at Death & Co. in its early days and is now a partner. “On a personal level, there are times when I want a bone-dry vodka martini. Because I’ve had a hard day and I want a big glass of booze, and I want it cold as hell.
In the 2000s and early 2010s, ordering a vodka martini at some bars was not only uncool, it was impossible. That"soapboxy" attitude"seems insane now," said David Kaplan, founder and co-owner of the New York speakeasy Death & Co.
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