Inspired by the Korean treat hodu-gwaja, these snack cakes can be baked in a trusty, run-of-the-mill muffin pan
Fall is, hands-down, my favorite time of year. When I feel the first inklings of a chill in the air, I gladly replace iced Americanos with steaming oat milk cappuccinos, exchange tossed salads for hearty roasted vegetables, and dig into my box of warming spices.
For October’s cake installment, I developed a batch of muffin-shaped, red bean-filled cakes as a nod to a, a Korean treat that translates as “walnut cake/cookie.” The soft, bite-size balls are filled with walnuts and red bean paste, and dangerously easy to eat in pairs . Growing up, I was lucky enough to have hodu-gwaja only when my family stopped by an H-Mart in a major city or when we received them as a gift.
Using a mixture of all-purpose and sweet rice flours yields cakes with a moist, slightly springy texture, and sweetened red bean paste is both creamed into the batter and dolloped on top of it by the tablespoon. As the cakes bake, the red bean paste sinks to the center while most of the chopped toasted walnuts remain on top, resulting in a balance of creamy, crunchy, and soft textures.
Though my interpretation of hodu-gwaja takes quite a few liberties with the original, it retains the same familiar flavors in a simple, approachable format. And it also boasts longevity: the sour cream and red bean paste keep the cakes soft for a few days when stored in an airtight container, which means you can share some of them and make your way through the rest. They’re a great way to welcome the cooler temperatures — and proof that red bean and walnuts belong on the season’s flavor roster.
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