Westside Los Angeles has historically been a Chinese food desert. But now Asian American Angelenos are eagerly anticipating the opening of a 99 Ranch in Westwood.
Most immigrant families face at least two commutes: one between work and home, and another, between home and the grocery store, to make a place smell, taste and feel like home.
David Chan, left, pictured in 2013, has eaten at and chronicled more than 7,000 different Chinese restaurants around the world. He has carefully tracked the growth of Westside Chinese cuisine. Up until the 1960s, when Chan was still a student at UCLA, most Westside neighborhoods were entirely white thanks to normalized and widespread housing discrimination. Chinese food in L.A., Chan said, was defined by Americanized restaurants such as Twin Dragon, Madame Wu and Jade West.
These commutes between home and the food that spells home to me have become a time honored ritual that I do not particularly resent. At the same time, I acknowledge that these journeys have been forced upon us. I believe many immigrants and people of color would not have moved to the suburbs if they had the same chances to make a life in the city.
Though it’s tempting to believe Angelenos simply became more appreciative and educated about Chinese culture, Chan attributes the success of these restaurants to a critical mass of Chinese students at Los Angeles universities. Many of the first authentic Chinese restaurants on the Westside located themselves near UCLA and USC, near a captive audience that could appreciate regional Chinese food.
A 2014 report found Los Angeles County was home to more than 20,000 Chinese international students at places like UCLA, USC and Santa Monica College. By 2020, Asian Americans accounted for about 14.5% of the Westside’s population according to American Community Survey five-year estimates.
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