Why brand new Cadet’s alliance of paté en croute, country cooking, and wine feels like it’s been around forever
) no longer feel the need to self-consciously differentiate from their inspirations, be they city or countryside.
Maturing is realising that these places always had more in common than the years between them alluded. Cadet is a French wine bar on Newington Green. There is very good wine and charcuterie and simple food comprised of astutely sourced ingredients. London has room for this — wants this. People have room for this in their daily lives, rather than as an escape from reality or a special occasion. It is confident, it has no need for pyrotechnics, and it doesn’t need to claim to be more.
While the crust-in-waiting chills down after the first moulding, upstairs, chef Jamie Smart shapes pastry of his own. This for a honey custard tart to round off a meal, or just to sit alongside a glass.Now for the filling. Having Jephson’s production, which serves his wholesale business as well as Cadet, alongside Smart in the kitchen, lets the bar buy whole pigs to butcher down.
But there’s more than charcuterie at Cadet. Jamie Smart’s cooking is most directly informed by his time at Auberge de Chassignolles, which translates into unaffected, simple plates primed for wine. Fans of Planque, in Haggerston, will see some pleasing parallels.
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