Yellowtail this is not.
Most of us know three Australian wines. Yellowtail, the 1.5-liter bottle of choice for house parties from college to retirement. You have Shir, everyone’s favorite for attempting an inevitably bad accent. And then Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, the one we throw around to sound like we know something about wine, even though we don’t because it’s...from New Zealand. That’s all the Australian wine experience we’ve had because that’s most of what’s been available in the States. Until now.
Australia is a New World wine country, meaning winemaking began there after the 15th century New World wines are often categorized as ripe, fruity, and high in alcohol because that was the popular style when these regions started producing for a global market. But much like California over the past decade,producers in Australia right now are ignoring those preconceived notions, not to “redefine” themselves but to finally define their wines on their own terms.
TBH, I’ve become kind of obsessed with them. It started because of their scarcity. For a while you could only get the occasional Australian bottle at my local natural wine shops. But when those shops started carving out real shelf space for new Australian producers, I went after it. I consumed them quicker than bottle service with a rapper’s entourage, and I have the credit card statements to prove it. The wines are so fun and so wild, that my thirst, and curiosity, has been insatiable.
When Severine Perru—the powerhouse wine director behind the NYC, and soon to be L.A., natural wine bar/chapel The Ten Bells—came to town, I questioned her like I was a passionate Stabler from SVU, investigating an Australian wine crime . She had just returned from making wine in south Australia’s Basket Range region of Adelaide Hills this past spring, and I wanted to know everything.
What modern Australian winemakers care about, and what I care about, is that this region with incredible potential is now able to step outside the homogenized super-fruity, high-alcohol, clunky profile of “New World.” Instead of following silhouettes of kangaroos down the aisles of Target, these wines are carving their own paths through expression of terroir and experimentation with varieties, and that is what keeps wine exciting.
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