3 secrets to perfect tomato sauce, from a Naples pasta master:
—because of the abundance of the crop,” Di Martino says. In summer, families gather to bottle sauce, turning it into a week-long affair. Women wash the tomatoes while the older men carry boxes. If you’re over the age of five or six, you’re helping in the kitchen.“Everyone has a role and everyone is eating tomatoes,” Di Martino says, having just relived the experience a couple of weeks ago. Tomatoes make their way into every sauce.
Tomato-based Neapolitan sauce is as Italian as ketchup is American. Here, Di Martino shares three of his top tips for perfecting“What you want is an equilibrium between the acidity of the tomatoes and thickness of the pasta,” he explains. “The generic rule is the more acidic the tomatoes, the thicker the spaghetti.” Sweeter, yellow tomatoes that have a lemon zest flavor are perfect for thin, because the pasta releases less starch when it’s cooked.
The long, plum-like San Marzano tomatoes, meanwhile, are the holy grail of Italian tomatoes, since they offer the perfect balance of acidity and sweetness. These tomatoes are a favorite forthe base for Italian sauces—a purée or paste sans seeds or skins crafted from sieved tomatoes.Thicker pasta releases more starch and needs to cook longer, so it’s a better match with more acidic tomatoes. “Normal” spaghetti measures 1.
Boil the spaghetti for four minutes in a separate pot, and then fold it into the pan with the tomato sauce. Leave it simmering for another four minutes. This helps thicken the pasta sauce, creating an emulsion that coats the spaghetti. Don’t mix the spaghetti for the first two minutes; just make sure it’s soaking in the sauce, Di Martino advises. For the last two minutes, shake the pan to coat the pasta in the sauce.
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