For the last 15 years, the pendulum has swung in the other direction. Wines around the world have become far less extravagant, aiming instead for freshness and finesse.
For longer than I can remember, California chardonnay has been a wine that many discerning consumers love to hate. It is by far the most popular white grape grown in California, with about 90,000 acres planted in 2021, dwarfing runners-up like sauvignon blanc, pinot gris and colombard, with about 16,000 acres each.
The most vocal component of this countermovement came to be summarized as “Anything but Chardonnay,” or ABC, even as it applied in principle to overdone wines of all sorts. I recently went shopping for California chardonnays that reflect this new reality. I’ve never been a fan of the bombastic style, so I did not try to find them. Instead, I picked a dozen bottles, ranging from $20 to $100, that reflect a more incisive, energetic approach.
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